Decisions, Decisions

I'm trying to decide what to do this weekend. I only have 3 left and I want to make the most of them.

My options are:

Waterfall hike on Marangu or Machame (bottom of Kili): This was the original plan but Sabi, a friend/guide, has yet to get back to me about time, cost or required equipment. I'd like to go but it looks like without the information, this won't happen.

Trip to Masai village near Monduli: This is a trip organized for/with a Masai friend of JS to his village. The cost is around $50-60USD. We'd see a sacred tree, eat lunch, and walk around his village. The money would help the village but I'm not sure I want to spend that much money on a day trip when I have to start thinking about gifts, etc.

Trip to Mulala: This is a cultural tourism program that I wanted to do from the very beginning. The more trips people do though, the less I think it's a good idea to do. They really try to rip off wazungu (white people) so I'm not sure I want to spend my day getting hustled.

Stay in Arusha / hang out / go to the Masai market: AB and NK are planning on just hanging out and going to the Masai Market down the street from me. I was planning on going again to get gifts but not sure I should do this now or during the week. I feel lame just staying in town. If I go to Tenga next week and Nairobi the following week though, this might be the best time to get everything organized. Plus, I could still go to the dance competition at 730 and do a different day trip on Sunday.

Also - I realize how silly this may be. No matter what I do, I'm still in AFRICA. And I love it. :)

Zanzibar: Alhamisi!

I was supposed to go to work for a half day but a late night meant I got to work around 10:30. Unfortunately, our flight got pushed back so instead of leaving at 1pm, we had to leave at 4pm. BB, AT, NK, HB and I were all on the flight together. Little did we know that Arusha airport was so tiny that we couldn't even check in until 30 minutes before the flight.

While we waited, we decided to go across the rocked parking lot to a little bar, where the boys started the vacay off with some Konyagi (nasty but popular local gin). HB and I looked on in amusement but declined to partake.

Finally, we returned to the little airport and stood in a long line extending out past the airport's front doors. Once inside, we handed someone an old school printout of our itineraries and were handed flight stubs. We went through mini-security and then waited in a patio-type area outside to board our plane. After a few minutes, we were lead to a plane and told to choose our seats. NK and I sat together behind BB and in front of AT. AT, NK and I attempted to watch XMen on NK's laptop but the volume was far too low. Instead we all wound up chatting about the UN, other interns, how excited we were, how beautiful everything was, etc.

We saw Dar (huge city) and then started flying over the Ocean. The further we went, the more blue it turned. It was unbelievably gorgeous. The excitement kept building as the plane got closer. When we finally were able to exit, the air was warm, a welcome change from Arusha's cold winter. We filled out a quick immigration form (Zanzibar is *officially* part of Tanzania but still acts like it's own country... sorta - look it up) and headed out to get a taxi. For people traveling here, BEWARE. Men will approach you with laminated pieces of paper claiming that the official price is $20USD for a taxi ride into Stone Town. Do NOT listen to them. Tell them you're a resident. Tell them there is no set price. 10,000Tsh is what we paid for 5 people in a van and a car would be even less.

Driving through the town, I was mesmerized. Stone Town is Mje Mkongwe, or Ancient Town, of Zanzibar City. It is heavily populated and influenced by Islam and Mosque-like architecture. I think all the shapes and colors on the buildings and beautiful hijabs on the women were fantastic. While there is a Muslim population in Arusha (approx. 1/3 of the population), they usually hang out around Mosque Street, where I have been to all of twice in my past two months. In Zanzi, they are everywhere.

Once we got to the hotel, we discovered that they were booked so HB and I had to stay in the hotel behind Princess Salame. Score! Place turned out to be nicer and cheaper. We had a fabulous little balcony, king size beds with huge mosquito net set-up over a canopy and a shower complete with mirrors (amazing or awkward? Unclear).

We were all quite hungry so we met up with the other interns who had arrived a few hours earlier at a really expensive restaurant. Too expensive for me so I just had a Stoney Tangawizi (oh, how I will miss thee).

And then we headed to the Night Market. If you don't know, look it up. This was spectacular. I've never seen anything like it. At least 50 guys fill up the plaza off the docks and have tables filled with fresh lobster, clam, shark, barcuda, red snapper, shrimp, etc. If you know how to bargain, you can easily get the different kinds of meat on a stick for 1000Tsh/each. By far, the best thing we ate was the shark and spicy lobster. Also, try the sugar cane juice that they squeeze on the spot. The juice is the same all around (500-1000Tsh, depending on size) so get it anywhere.

After a couple hours trying all the different types of seafood, we asked some locals where we could go to dance. They suggested a place and we all piled into two taxis to head over. Unfortunately, when we arrived we realized we were the only ones at the place. Most of the group decided to stay and drink, but AN, NK and I peaced to a different place per the suggestion of our taxi driver.

Once there, the owner told us that the club wasn't open yet (it was only 10, we had to return at 12) but we were free to go upstairs and join the wedding celebration... so, of course, we decided to crash the wedding. Four different ladies and the Zanzibar-version of Ricky Martin each took turns singing on this music system that was blasting so loudly I legitimately thought I was going to have permanent hearing problems (like I don't already, right MW? Lol). The other group showed up for about 10 minutes but then decided to go back to the hotel to hang out on the roof deck and stare at the ocean. I opted to stay with the boys (AN, NK, BB) and shoot some pool.

NK and I schooled AN and BB. Twice. Then NK got BB to bet some local that he'd beat him in a game. Fortunately for BB, the local guy did not understand nor was interested in betting on a game. Second funniest thing of the night: the local guy kept waving his hand in front of his face, as if he were hiding or something? I had no idea what was going on, but later found it's John Cena's move in WWE? If you mention his name or make that motion, every kid in TZ will know what you're referring to. Bizarre.

After the boys finished off about 8-10 bottles of Konyagi, AN decided it was time to go down to the club. Between going upstairs and coming back down, the price of admission into the club had gone up 500Tsh (less than $0.50). AN was displeased. He tried to get us all in for 2500Tsh (less than $2). No go. He tried to get *me* in for free (I'm a lady after all). No go. How about 5000Tsh? No. After 10-15 minutes of failed bargaining, NK finally paid the 10k and walked us in. I was going to suggest that one of us pay the 2500 to see if it was worth it before all paying and wasting our money, but alas, I was too late.

Oh was I right though. Not a damn person in the place. I was quite tired at that point and sat down on the couch while AN and BB tried to haggle with the bartender over the price of a bottle of Konyagi, claiming it was 2000Tsh cheaper upstairs (it was not). Finally, AN, in his drunken glory came out to the dance floor with a drink in his hand and eyes closed and did the GIN HIPPY dance. It was spectacular. Oh, how I laughed at this 6'4, lanky Indian boy hippy dancing all over the fog filled room. THE funniest moment of the night.

Finally around 2 we went home. I was so happy to climb into my huge bed and fall asleep. I really felt like a queen but I'd much rather take my full size bed at home and be squished to the end, but held so tight, by the one I love. In fact, the entire trip just made me miss him more. No better way to enjoy heaven than with your boo, right?

<3

The Beginning of the Mombasa Mafia

Saturday I woke up at 7am to the beautiful view of the Indian Ocean and beach outside my window. It was warm enough for me to walk around in my bathing suit + yellow dress (unlike Arusha where I wear a fleece and scarf every day). I enjoyed the sun until about 10am when NK woke up and went to the ocean for a morning dip. Around 11, everyone was finally up and we had breakfast. Steven cut up some passionfruit, mango, bananas and pineapple for our fruit platter. He also made toast, eggs, and "sausages" (like beef hot dogs).

At some point, someone suggested we get massages. Everyone agreed to a 1000Ksh maximum. I secretly did not want a massage (I hate people touching my body) but I agreed anyway (mostly because I didn't think it would happen). But - voila! - Steven knew a woman who agreed to come to Sutt Cliff to do 30 min full body massages for 500Ksh/person including tip. After she arrived, we set up a place for the massages on one of the tables on the veranda. We then each switched off between getting our massage, basking in the sun, going for a dip in the pool/ocean, and walking along the beach. As someone who really hates their body being touched, especially by strangers, I will admit that the massage felt really good. I've never had a full body, deep tissue massage done before, especially not with a view that amazing.

The walk along the beach with AX, EX and AS was great. The flowers, crabs and water were all miraculous in their own ways. EX and I talked about the reputation of frats in Britain versus America (and determined they were the same), while AS, a frat boy, vehemently defended his brotherhood. I also talked to AX about missing MW and plans to live together. A few hours after breakfast, JH and I volunteered to make lunch (since Steven was still out looking for the fish we asked him for). I must say, I (along with everyone else) was pretty impressed by our quesadilla and fresh guacamole meal.

Sidenote: It's so weird that almost all of my friends are engaged, married or gearing up for engagement. I even went engagement ring shopping with another intern today. When did this change happen? Am I at that stage in life where all my friends start to become real grown-ups and get married, have babies, etc? For awhile I felt like I needed to get engaged too, but have (fortunately -especially for MW ;)) stopped feeling that way. Now I've just started telling people I want 9 kids. Mostly because I'm in love with MW's family and his mom is 1st of 9. No worries people - I will not be popping out 9 kids anytime soon. Or ever. Three is probably my real limit. We'll see. SEVERAL years from now. :)

That night, we had spectacular food. We had some type of rock fish and the best curry prawns I've ever tasted. It was so good that we called Steven out to clap for his amazing work. Since I was falling asleep at the table, I decided to take a 1 hr nap (that turned into a 2 hr nap). In that time, I missed Never Have I Ever, the Animal game, Fives, the start of beer pong, a trip to the store for MORE beer and - most importantly - the Star Spangled Banner at midnight (for the 4th of July). Sad I missed all that but I definitely would have fallen asleep outside anyway.

When I woke up, I went to the veranda to watch JY and GG kick everyone's butt in beer pong. To be fair, NK and (mostly) AX were REALLY close to winning - sinking the ball in the last cup on their last chance, requiring a final round of 4 cups, which they brought down to 1-1 before finally losing the game and the 1000Ksh NK bet GG). After the games were done, the girls went to sleep and the guys hung out and chatted. We ate these chocolates that allegedly require you to put them unwrapped on your forehead and worked down into your mouth without any hands. We had pretty awkward / hilarious conversations. GG passed out in his chair and then when he finally woke up, laid down on the couch outside, refusing to get into the bed he was sharing with JH. Hilarious.

Sunday I woke up early again and laid out in the sun for awhile. After a few hours, people started joining and we had Steven make us breakfast on the grass again. Somehow in our ridiculousness, we all forgot to buy food for our BBQ when we went to the store the previous night. JH and I offered to go a) take care of converting the money to pay for the house rental; b) get groceries and c) stop and look for souvenirs. We successfully completed the first two, but sadly not the last.

GG made amazing beef and chicken burgers with cheese and garlic. We also finished off the avocados and mangoes with some pina colada juice (that was meant to be used with the rum the previous night... but never happened). After lunch, we took some final group pictures and then got ready to go. It was so hard leaving because a) we all got along really well; b) no one wanted to leave Mombasa or in particular, the house; and c) no one wanted to head back to their respective internships/jobs in Arusha, Nairobi or Da Daab (refugee camp).

Alas, our trip was over. The drive back was rather uneventful except for the fact that our driver had to physically open the Tanzanian border himself and then hunt down a person to take care of our visas so we could legally come back in the country. Ridic. It was also at this point that Alex asked if: NK was my boyfriend (no); was anyone in the group my boyfriend (no); was my boyfriend in Arusha (yes!); and then for my number. What?? I've definitely had problems with guys when I said my boyfriend/fiance/husband was in America but I thought for sure they'd back off if I said he was in the same city. Apparently, this is a wrong assumption. "African" women - beware. I made a really smart move - I got his number and said I would text him mine. Of course, I never did, despite NK's constant pestering to do otherwise (jokingly, btw :)).

All in all, I'm SO glad I went. It took about 5 hours on Thursday for me to decide if I was going to go or not, but the trip was SO worth it. If you're ever in Mombasa and want to spend some time in your own little paradise, hit me up. I'll give you the info for Sutt Cliff.

Weekend in Mombasa: Welcome!

Mombasa Mafia w/ Love:

Eight of us (5 ICTR interns) spent the weekend in Mombasa, which is a beautiful city on Kenya's coast. The weekend was AMAZING. I will certainly return and HIGHLY recommend this house to anyone who stays in Mombasa.

The group was fantastic together. We had a British couple who was a bit older and had worked for corporate law before deciding to follow their heart into international human rights law. AX found a job in Ghana and EX, her fiance, found a job there for a few months and then AX did the same in Arusha when EX got the internship here. There was JH, who planned everything and is a superstar law student who has decided to postpone her graduation from a top 3 law school to continue working on her case here (and for a boy). There was AS who is a frat boy who has sailed all over the world and knows everything. There's NK who will probably be one of the people I actually keep in contact with when we get back to the states. He's done a lot of work (Peace Corp, NGO) in China and traveled all over Asia.On the drive, we saw a herd of elephants (including a baby!) and some camels. While the road was awful, the view was beautiful. Especially when we got closer to Kenya, the dirt became quite red. The coloring reminded me of Red Rock back home. I find it quite amazing how I can find such different environment so beautiful - from Tanzania's luscious green mountains to Kenya's flat red desert.

When we got into Mombasa, we met GG at Serena, a really expensive hotel right on the beach. Walking out of the hotel and seeing the pool, trees, beach and Indian Ocean in all its glory was breathtaking. It was chilly but I didn't care; this was bee-yoo-tiful. We had a beer while taking in the ocean breeze and getting to know GG. He is amazing - he's 25 and already working for the UNHCR/Mapendo with Somali refugees. Just a genuinely nice guy who's doing a lot to make a difference.

We decided to go to the grocery store to get food/supplies for the weekend before attempting to find the house we rented. We also met JY there, an intern at Mapendo.'s Nairobi office After spending quite a bit of money on food/booze, we set off to find the house. For two hours. In the dark. While our travel agent, Fiona, ignored our call while she took a bath. WTF. Haha. Honestly, I wasn't even upset. We had cracked open some Tuskers while Alex, our driver, tried to follow Fiona's map and get directions from Masai guards in the area. Finally, we found Jackson on the side of the road and asked him if he knew Sett Cliff. He directed this cracked out woman and her adorable child (who looked like the girl in Little Miss Sunshine) to where they were going, he hopped in our van and directed us to our house. We NEVER would have found it. Jackson got a very large tip + beers that night.

When we arrived, the staff (Steven, our cook and a maid) greeted and welcomed us to Sett Cliff. I remember screaming out of excitement for finally finding this little piece of paradise (and yes, I know I keep referring to all these places as heaven/paradise, but if you come and see for yourself, you'll understand why). The house was better than we could have hoped. It was two buildings. The one on the right had two bedrooms and a shower on the bottom and a master bedroom upstairs. The building on the left had two bedrooms, a living room, a dining room, a bathroom, and a kitchen. A covered veranda was attached to the building on the left, overlooking the Indian Ocean and beach. There was a pool right outside the right building and stairs by the veranda and the pool leading down to our personal beach and to a dock.



After Steven graciously offered to let us squish in and watch the Ghana game in his bedroom out back, we went for a late night dip in the pool and then the ocean. Somehow the ocean water was SO much warmer than the pool. The moon was out. It was wonderful. After an hour or so, we moved to the veranda and just hung out / chatted / got to know each other. One of my favorite stories from that night is AX talking about going to Blue Heron (mzungu restaurant in Arusha) without EX. She emailed him to taunt him because she knew he was stuck at work. He wrote her back (and read in a British accent): "You treacherous little slut." LOL.

I am so jealous of pretty much everyone who was there that night. They all took time off before law school or have done really amazing things in school. They've traveled all over, earned degrees in foreign countries, worked for amazing organizations and really made a difference in someone's life. I hope that my life will start to be that amazing soon and that TZ is not just the beginning of the end of amazing-ness for me.

More on what actually happened that weekend later!

I conquered Meru

This past weekend I summit-ed Mt. Meru, Africa’s 5^th tallest mountain. It’s now Thursday and I finally feel normal again. The first two days were beautiful and the hikes were wonderful. I took over 300 photos of the beautiful red hot pokers, trees, giraffes, buffalos, and, of course, Meru. I “joined” Team Pole Pole (Slowly Slowly) with MS, JS, and MH. Because of the altitude difference, hikers are supposed to ascend slowly. Especially with my asthma, this was not a problem up to the first two campsites.

Summit day, on the other hand, was brutal. We woke up at midnight, had tea and biscuits and started the climb a little after one. One of the girls, MH, was really sick so Peter, our guide, asked a porter to come with us in case she had to stay behind / turn around. In the pitch black and the rain, we marched on for hours - up hills of sand, in zig-zags, and across rock faces. By 630am I was physically and mentally exhausted. My clothes (5 layers of shirts, 3 layers of pants and snow gloves) were completely drenched. Between the rain and the wind, I was sure I was going to lose some body part(s) to frostbite or die of hypothermia. I starting blaming Peter for telling me that I could do it when every peak that looked like it could/should be the summit wasn’t. I was upset at MW for not telling me how to keep dry/warm (unfair, I know. I blame it on the altitude?). I was so mad at myself for thinking it was a good idea to climb a silly mountain. Oh, and Kili. Definitely off my list of things to do.

But eventually, finally, we reached the summit. It was completely clouded over and we couldn’t see Kili, Arusha or the sunriset. This is what I paid $400 for?? Ugh. We quickly took a few (lopsided / fuzzy) pictures and ran off the mountain. MH ran ahead and JS, MS, Peter and I took a quick, but not too rushed hike back. I almost immediately started to feel better, as my clothes started to dry out and I took off some wet clothes (namely, my drenched gloves). At one point, Peter stopped and pointed out the rough outline of Ash Cone, which is the ash remnants of the volcano (used to be higher than Kili) that blew, creating a lot of the path to Meru’s summit. Peter kept commanding the clouds to move away to reveal more of such a beautiful sight and we were lucky enough to see most of the breathtaking view. In those moments, I began reconsidering Kili.

After an hour or so more, we finally reached the Saddle Hut Base Camp. I was so exhausted after 11 hours of hiking. I barely touched the cabbage, toast, chapati lunch provided and quickly crawled into my sleeping bag to try to get warm. I laid there for about an hour, shivering. Finally we had to get up, pack and head back down to the first set of camps, where there was a Rescue Car waiting for us. The nine of us piled in the back with Peter and another guide standing up. The rocking back-and-forth in the car / against everyone and the awesome animal sightings (giraffe, colubus monkey, dik dik, etc) made our bond even stronger.

Overall, I’m glad I went. I’m even happier that I was able to summit. For those looking at doing Meru/Kili, do it. Nine times out of ten you’ll have better weather than we had and as long as your group is just as great, the overall experience is fantastic.

More to come on dinner at Jose’s last night and dinner with Evans tonight later. Now, it’s time for bed. J