Zanzibar: Alhamisi!

I was supposed to go to work for a half day but a late night meant I got to work around 10:30. Unfortunately, our flight got pushed back so instead of leaving at 1pm, we had to leave at 4pm. BB, AT, NK, HB and I were all on the flight together. Little did we know that Arusha airport was so tiny that we couldn't even check in until 30 minutes before the flight.

While we waited, we decided to go across the rocked parking lot to a little bar, where the boys started the vacay off with some Konyagi (nasty but popular local gin). HB and I looked on in amusement but declined to partake.

Finally, we returned to the little airport and stood in a long line extending out past the airport's front doors. Once inside, we handed someone an old school printout of our itineraries and were handed flight stubs. We went through mini-security and then waited in a patio-type area outside to board our plane. After a few minutes, we were lead to a plane and told to choose our seats. NK and I sat together behind BB and in front of AT. AT, NK and I attempted to watch XMen on NK's laptop but the volume was far too low. Instead we all wound up chatting about the UN, other interns, how excited we were, how beautiful everything was, etc.

We saw Dar (huge city) and then started flying over the Ocean. The further we went, the more blue it turned. It was unbelievably gorgeous. The excitement kept building as the plane got closer. When we finally were able to exit, the air was warm, a welcome change from Arusha's cold winter. We filled out a quick immigration form (Zanzibar is *officially* part of Tanzania but still acts like it's own country... sorta - look it up) and headed out to get a taxi. For people traveling here, BEWARE. Men will approach you with laminated pieces of paper claiming that the official price is $20USD for a taxi ride into Stone Town. Do NOT listen to them. Tell them you're a resident. Tell them there is no set price. 10,000Tsh is what we paid for 5 people in a van and a car would be even less.

Driving through the town, I was mesmerized. Stone Town is Mje Mkongwe, or Ancient Town, of Zanzibar City. It is heavily populated and influenced by Islam and Mosque-like architecture. I think all the shapes and colors on the buildings and beautiful hijabs on the women were fantastic. While there is a Muslim population in Arusha (approx. 1/3 of the population), they usually hang out around Mosque Street, where I have been to all of twice in my past two months. In Zanzi, they are everywhere.

Once we got to the hotel, we discovered that they were booked so HB and I had to stay in the hotel behind Princess Salame. Score! Place turned out to be nicer and cheaper. We had a fabulous little balcony, king size beds with huge mosquito net set-up over a canopy and a shower complete with mirrors (amazing or awkward? Unclear).

We were all quite hungry so we met up with the other interns who had arrived a few hours earlier at a really expensive restaurant. Too expensive for me so I just had a Stoney Tangawizi (oh, how I will miss thee).

And then we headed to the Night Market. If you don't know, look it up. This was spectacular. I've never seen anything like it. At least 50 guys fill up the plaza off the docks and have tables filled with fresh lobster, clam, shark, barcuda, red snapper, shrimp, etc. If you know how to bargain, you can easily get the different kinds of meat on a stick for 1000Tsh/each. By far, the best thing we ate was the shark and spicy lobster. Also, try the sugar cane juice that they squeeze on the spot. The juice is the same all around (500-1000Tsh, depending on size) so get it anywhere.

After a couple hours trying all the different types of seafood, we asked some locals where we could go to dance. They suggested a place and we all piled into two taxis to head over. Unfortunately, when we arrived we realized we were the only ones at the place. Most of the group decided to stay and drink, but AN, NK and I peaced to a different place per the suggestion of our taxi driver.

Once there, the owner told us that the club wasn't open yet (it was only 10, we had to return at 12) but we were free to go upstairs and join the wedding celebration... so, of course, we decided to crash the wedding. Four different ladies and the Zanzibar-version of Ricky Martin each took turns singing on this music system that was blasting so loudly I legitimately thought I was going to have permanent hearing problems (like I don't already, right MW? Lol). The other group showed up for about 10 minutes but then decided to go back to the hotel to hang out on the roof deck and stare at the ocean. I opted to stay with the boys (AN, NK, BB) and shoot some pool.

NK and I schooled AN and BB. Twice. Then NK got BB to bet some local that he'd beat him in a game. Fortunately for BB, the local guy did not understand nor was interested in betting on a game. Second funniest thing of the night: the local guy kept waving his hand in front of his face, as if he were hiding or something? I had no idea what was going on, but later found it's John Cena's move in WWE? If you mention his name or make that motion, every kid in TZ will know what you're referring to. Bizarre.

After the boys finished off about 8-10 bottles of Konyagi, AN decided it was time to go down to the club. Between going upstairs and coming back down, the price of admission into the club had gone up 500Tsh (less than $0.50). AN was displeased. He tried to get us all in for 2500Tsh (less than $2). No go. He tried to get *me* in for free (I'm a lady after all). No go. How about 5000Tsh? No. After 10-15 minutes of failed bargaining, NK finally paid the 10k and walked us in. I was going to suggest that one of us pay the 2500 to see if it was worth it before all paying and wasting our money, but alas, I was too late.

Oh was I right though. Not a damn person in the place. I was quite tired at that point and sat down on the couch while AN and BB tried to haggle with the bartender over the price of a bottle of Konyagi, claiming it was 2000Tsh cheaper upstairs (it was not). Finally, AN, in his drunken glory came out to the dance floor with a drink in his hand and eyes closed and did the GIN HIPPY dance. It was spectacular. Oh, how I laughed at this 6'4, lanky Indian boy hippy dancing all over the fog filled room. THE funniest moment of the night.

Finally around 2 we went home. I was so happy to climb into my huge bed and fall asleep. I really felt like a queen but I'd much rather take my full size bed at home and be squished to the end, but held so tight, by the one I love. In fact, the entire trip just made me miss him more. No better way to enjoy heaven than with your boo, right?

<3

Settling In

I've skipped writing in my journal for a few days but am trying to return. Yesterday (Tuesday) was wonderful. I went to the School of St. Jude's with Ed (Australia), Roam (Isreali) and Jonathon (Isreali/American) in Mishono, just outside Arusha. It was my first time taking a dalala and boy what an experience. I think I counted 17 people in the dalala, including the boys hanging out the side. Once we arrived, we had a bit to walk. We had several offers to ride on the motorcycle but I'm glad we decided to walk it.

I'm sorry I didn't bring my camera because the campus, the atmosphere - everything was so amazing. The School of St. Jude's gives over 100 poverty-stricken children the opportunity to get high quality education FREE. They provide two meals a day to regular students and four meals a day to boarders, who live about a 20 minute walk away from campus. They teach computers, Kiswahili, physics, chemistry, mathematics, art, music, dance. The teachers and staff are mostly native Tanzanians, though there are some who are from Australia (the founder, Jemma, is from Australia).

Felix, our tour guide, started out as a bus driver. He asked for an office job but they told him he needed to learn to speak English and to use the computers before he could get a job. He took English and computer lessons at the school (free of charge to staff). After a year and a half, they asked him if he still wanted an office job so now he works as the visitor coordinator. I think it was a smart move - both for him and for the company (marketing, etc wise) to have him be the coordinator with such a great story like that. Plus, he's just a really nice guy so it was a pleasure spending the day with him.

We got to tour the original campus (for 3 students!), the library (where the librarian in training screamed to me "I love you! You are so cute!"), the art room (where we met Kwaka, Ed's friend from dinner and dancing at his house the night before), and admin (where we met Mim, Ed's friend's sister-in-law). The Isreali boys left but Ed and I got to eat lunch (some cabbage stuff, rice, and lentils), which was actually really good. They cook their own food (and grow a lot of it) on campus so I was really quite impressed. They also have purified water everywhere so the children get clean water. If the staff or children speak Swahili, they lose points. There's a competition with prizes for the class with the most points at the end of the year and a cash prize for the person who never speaks Swahili from the staff.

After lunch, we visited the headmaster, the secondary school and the boarding school. To get to the boarding school, you have to walk along this muddy road and pass several little houses with many animals (goats, cows, tons of chickens/roosters). You also pass a whole field of coffee plants, banana trees and maize. It seems like it goes on for miles. You finally come to this huge gate, guarded with more Maasai men (apparently because they are known as the soldier tribe - and because they generally lack any education - the Maasai men wind up being guards for many places). The school is in the process of building more houses for the boarders (using locals to build everything). The buildings themselves are beautiful. Beautiful floors, beautiful layout. In the girls rooms, they have six bunk beds and each room decides to fold their beds differently than any other room. They also try to decorate it (door only) with sayings like "I love my room! I kiss my room!" It's really quite cute. They are all so clean too. I imagine it is to teach them discipline and responsibility, as well as for when sponsors and visitors tour the campus. On each floor, there is a common area for the children and each dorm has a classroom so another teacher can follow up on that day's lesson, help with homework, answer questions and maybe give them a preview of the next day's lesson. Finally, as you're walking out, you see this gorgeous, lush, green mountain and behind it, Mt. Meru. How. Breathtaking. I can't even explain to you how gorgeous this area is. You simply must see it for yourselves. In the meantime, I'll (hopefully) be able to go back out and take pictures to post on here for your pleasure.

After the boarding school, we watched the kids play volleyball and soccer for awhile. Afterwards, Ed and I took the colorful school bus to the Clocktower. We walked around, found a cute bakery, where we tried a samosa (not bad) and had soda in the tall glass bottle. After, Ed showed me the market, the Shop Rite (South African supermarket) and cute little restaurants, etc around old town. Finally, we met up with Ed's friend Alpha and Alpha's friend Abdullah for a beer (I've started collecting beer labels for my handwritten journal :)). We had to leave shortly thereafter to meet up with the Isrealis and then go to dinner at a Syrian place for Bin (BM)'s departure. It was really beautiful, with a huge sheet-like thing covering the entire ceiling. The food was decently priced (wraps - 6500 Tsh) - AND they had shisha! :) The hummus was not great (not enough lemon!) but overall, I was happy. It was also nice to meet several more interns and talk to some of the people in the house before they leave as well.

This morning (5/26) I woke up at 7 (after going to bed at 3am) to walk down to the ICTR to see if I could start early. Unfortunately, once I got there the guard started asking me where my employment letter was, who I was working for, what the internship coordinator's extension was. I had nothing on me. I had no idea I needed anything. He called FM, but she didn't answer. He left two messages. I waited half an hour. Then I decided, if she is so scatterbrained that she can't respond to emails in three months and can't arrange for transportation from the airport as promised, she probably wasn't going to be into work until much later. I wound up leaving and finding Hinji before he took his shuttle to the airport to fly to Zanzibar. I thought I might to with him since I wasn't confident I could get a hold of FM, but on my way home, I ran into Ed and the Isrealis. Ed suggested I wait until the other interns get here because they'll want to do Zanzi, and knowing myself, I will enjoy it a lot more if I'm not alone (Hinji's phone may not work so I may not be able to get a hold of him and would wind up spending the week in Zanzibar by myself... mmm no thanks).

Once I got home, my feet were bleeding (rain + friction w/ my heels) and I had no key. Mama (Veronica) let me in thankfully. I took a nap for 3 hrs (whoops!), read some, ate some, and texted Ed to see what he was up to. He invited me out to dinner with a friend, Yemi. She was an intern in chambers with Ed last year but she decided to do another year-long stint. She's originally from Nairobi but now calls Cali home. She seems quite nice and really funny so I hope we become friends.

I left Africafe with Ed, Yemi and Evans (Ed's really good friend) to go with PG, AK and EB (all ICTR interns) to watch a movie about the "Third Gender" in India. Apparently there are a lot of hijras in India: men who dress up as women and have sex with men. It definitely is a bit misleading because even the hijras distinguish themselves from hetero/homo males and hetero/homo females. Seems like "third" gender isn't quite accurate. Also, the director of the documentary seemed so judgmental. It was really quite strange.

Now I'm back and talking to MW. It's strange to be able to talk to him for so long here. It really makes me feel like I'm not that far away, not really in Africa. Guess I'll see how I feel once I start work. One thing I can say: MW and I seem (strangely) to be doing so much better. Everything seems perfect, no fights, just pure love. It's amazing. Can I blame it on law school? Haha.